L’Anse Aux Meadows

This is the 2nd in a 3-part series on Newfoundland

On a lonely highway in a tempest on Newfoundland’s remote Northern Peninsula, we spotted our first moose (if you don’t count the fresh-ground burger we enjoyed at a roadside take-out stand near Deer Lake).

Luckily, before moose met grill, the big bull stepped off the road into the ditch and I was able to keep the rig down the centerline, avoiding the frigid Gulf of St. Lawrence to our left and a deep frightful fen to our right.

We had set out that morning from Gros Morne National Park, 350 km south ‘up’ the coast. The night before had been clear and 7 degrees. By early morning it was rain and 17. This was the muggy aftermath of Hurricane Irma, which weeks after devastating Key West, was now bringing high winds and warm rain to remote – and distinctly non-tropical – Newfoundland.

We were bound for L’Anse aux Meadows, on the extreme tip of northwest Newfoundland where lie the remains of North America’s oldest European settlement. It was October so, although we arrived before 5 p.m., twilight was nigh as we settled in at the Viking RV Park. We were the only campers. The office was closed.

In the morning I deposited cash in the “off-season/$25 per night” bucket by the abandoned office and drove the remaining few km to the National Historic Site.

One of the advantages to a late fall motorhome trip is that, with darkness extant by suppertime, it’s early to bed – and early to rise. The healthy wealthy and wise part I cannot comment on. So, uncharacteristically, we arrived at L’Anse aux Meadows first thing in the morning, just as the park gates were being unlocked.

Leif Ericsson, a Norse explorer, together with his small group of intrepid fellow Viking seafarers, landed here around 1000 AD. They strategically chose this spot near the Straight of Belle Isle, within sight of Labrador. They called the place Vinland, the land where wild grapes grow. Setting up a sturdy encampment of turf-walled buildings, they explored for hardwood lumber, iron ore and arable land.

From the visitor center we followed a Parks Canada interpreter down the winding boardwalk toward the sea. He showed us the faint remains of the original sod buildings: the leader’s hall, labourer’s quarters, a women’s workshop and the smelting hut where a charcoal kiln produced iron from bog ore.

But the terrain was unwelcoming – as perhaps was the indigenous native population – and after only decade or two, the Vikings abandoned the site, burning everything as they departed.

The interpreter’s talk ended here and, with somber thoughts, we continued down the trail to where the National Park service has artfully reconstructed a series of sod huts by the cold sea.

The Norse may have been fierce warriors but they couldn’t have been very tall – I had to stoop as we entered the longhouse. The room was dimly lit by a smoky peat fire. When our eyes adjusted to the low yellow light, we noticed a man and a woman clad in Viking attire seated by the comfortable fire. The man, a Leif Ericsson doppelganger, whittled a talisman while the young woman wove fabric on a traditional loom.

They explained in detail how the first Viking explorers had lived, eaten, slept and toiled here 1000 years ago, eking out a meagre existence on this inhospitable shore by the frigid north Atlantic.

Newfoundlanders are the friendliest, most outgoing of people, so when I asked the young woman if she lived nearby, her Parks Canada persona evaporated like ‘tick fag’ and the talk immediately turned to the upcoming weekend, her two hard-earned days off and fall berry-picking.

“I was born just over that side of the ‘arbour. My father ran trawler ‘til the fish ran out.” (In Newfoundland ‘fish’ means cod. Everything else, haddock, flounder, plaice, etc. is known by its usual name.) She winked and said, “Growing up, it was always cold in the house. In winter we’d have to open the fridge to warm the place.”

I then inquired about the merits of partridgeberry vs. bakeapple jam. We had been looking for souvenir gifts and both berry varieties were available at the Dark Tickle Chocolate store just down the road.

“Both are horrible!” said the Leif look-alike, unable to resist joining in.

She disagreed and told him so. “Oh me nerves, he’s got me drove.” Apparently partridgeberry-picking was on her weekend agenda.

In an effort to change the subject I asked whether the town of Quirpon or Great Brehat – just down the coast – were worth a visit. She and Leif chuckled. “I die at you,” she said laughing. Nothing will label you a tourist in Newfoundland like the mispronunciation of local place names. Quirpon is ‘Car-poon.’ Great Brehat is pronounced ‘Great Bra’. Happily, I didn’t inquire about Ferryland.

“Where are youse from?” she asked. “Alberta,” we replied. “Alberta,” she continued. “I’ve got a brother in Ft. McMurray.” (I can report that we didn’t meet a single Newfoundlander who did not have at least one family member working out west. But, no matter where a Newfoundlander might live, a trip ‘home’ is always in the works. Famously, it is a 63-hour drive from Ft McMurray to the Rock.)

I tried to get her back on Viking track – but to no avail. All pretense of the 11th century Norsewoman was abandoned. She continued, talking about her husband, the small family garden, the incessant rain.

“And there was himself last night,” she continued. “Luh, standing in a downpour, coat open, staring at lord knows what, sopped to the skin and stunned as me arse.” Then she politely adjusted her bonnet and resumed weaving.

CBC radio had gravely informed us that morning that the Doomsday Clock had been moved to two minutes before midnight. The world was closer to self-destruction than it had been at any time since the Cold War. I asked her if she was worried.

“Not a bit. After all, with the half-hour time change here in Newfoundland, we’ve got until 12:30am.”

I love Newfoundland.

Next time: Jiggs Dinner

Gerry